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MARCH 30, 2001 VOL.27 NO.12

I Love Shanghai
Like a lover, it is complex, tempting and irresistible
By MIAN MIAN




COVER STORY New China

China's impending entry into the World Trade Organization is about to bring profound changes. the first effects will be felt in its showcase city, Shanghai

PLUS
• Opinion: The WTO is neither a disaster nor a panacea
• Impact: Technology entrepreneur Edward Tian is changing the way the country does business
• Pressure: How the WTO will strain China's legal system

   Shanghai

• Cool Shanghai: Its decadent culture once clashed with Maoist principles, but after years of decay and neglect the city is rediscovering its remarkable history
• Nostalgia: A personal journey into the city's glittery past
• Amour: Writer Mian Mian on her love affair with Shanghai

• Artists: Avant-garde artists probe the boundaries of government censors and public tastes

   Business

• Financial Center: Inadequate institutions and a weak talent
• Reality: Author Pamela Yatsko argues that Shanghai needs more than a great skyline to be a truly international city

• Accounting: Will WTO entry improve the bookkeeping standards of mainland companies?
• Autos: A new model from GM aims for the middle class
• Investing: Nine companies to watch in the post-WTO era
• Money: Unlocking the potential of the country's savings

•Talents: An injection of fresh, foreign-trained talents could really rev up reform - if only they'd stay


This is my hometown. For over a decade I have watched it evolve. And I have been changed by it. To me, each shift has been a soft touch, a little murmur. The city's progress has also brought with it some things that make me sad. Everything has happened so quickly, the Shanghainese are lost, dizzy and confused — especially the young people. They just want to go out and have a good time. That's all they care about.

Still, I can't imagine living anywhere but here. Shanghai is a new city, a place where all kinds of people roam the streets 24 hours a day. For me, it is full of fresh experiences. I get caught up in its vibrant energy. It excites so many people, though the lost and depressed linger on. What exactly is it about Shanghai that drives people crazy this way? No one will ever really be able to articulate it. But to me, Shanghai is like an aloof but ravishingly beautiful woman. She waits to be conquered. It is difficult to figure out, tempting and irresistible.

Shanghai people are careful in many ways about how they live, and yet they are open to fresh ideas. Though they are Chinese inside, they look up to the West for many things — not always a healthy attitude. These days, mobile phones are everywhere. More and more people are using the Internet. Because of this, culture for a young person in Shanghai has never before been so lively. We can watch Western movies and listen to Western music. It makes us feel like the difference between East and West is gradually disappearing.

Whenever I walk down the streets of London, I feel genuinely thankful to be a Shanghai girl. One of my weaknesses is fashionable little bags. I've got about 20 of them. For women they are like a means of expression, a language. They cost you almost nothing in Shanghai. In London they cost a fortune. Being stylish in Shanghai is not expensive; living like this would be impossible in London. The same style of clothes, shoes and bags are one-third the price at home. I don't think girls in London are as well-dressed as we are in Shanghai.

Five years ago I became an event organizer. Since then I have put together many dance parties and rock concerts. I love seeing over a thousand lonely strangers together dancing. It's an experience that is more acutely real than my novels. In 1996 most young people in Shanghai didn't know what dance and dance music were. Those who were into the rock scene imitated British bands but didn't really relate to the music. International DJs appeared in Shanghai in 1997 and 1998. That's when the stiff and awkward bodies of Shanghai's boys and girls began to relax. The folks who made contemporary music discovered their own styles, too. By 1999, the party crowd knew the different kinds of dance music and chose their favorites. Then came the first independent international dance club run by Shanghai people: Club DKD. All of a sudden, more than 10 stylish bands sprang up with their own sound. Trust me, Shanghai no longer hungers for music.

In 1999, Ecstasy was a secret drug. It was seen as Western, which is why people didn't take it. And then, in a clever marketing move, dealers gave it a Chinese name — yautou wan, meaning "head-shaking pills." Kids, who then thought it was Chinese, would take yautou wan, listen to bad music and think they were cool. It was so sad. But by last year party-goers were "shaking their heads" to a rhythm that was their own. The beat continues for Shanghai's clubs, and I try to provide the best music around. This year, on the dance floors, the young people move in a body language that is also their own. Yautou wan isn't so popular anymore. The few local DJs have reached a new stage in their development as entertainers. DKD's Shine performed at events for more than 100,000 people in Germany, and its young DJ Calvin is now creating his own dance music. Many bands also come up here because of the opportunities Shanghai offers.

Actually, I am getting a bit tired of Shanghai's nightlife. For me it is already a bit stale. I'm waiting for the next new thing. But until it comes around I will go on with my business, organizing my events. Shanghai people need to dance, to enjoy the relationship between music and body. It is my dream to have everyone swaying to the same beat. That is why I am here and why I love Shanghai. I want to be part of its changes. Oh, and I love this town for two other important reasons. It is the safest place to go out at night. And taxis are cheap.

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